Acids in skincare

Many people avoid chemical exfoliants because they think they are harsh on the skin and not natural, but they are missing out one some of the best skincare products. Chemical exfoliants are actually much gentler than physical exfoliants, such as scrubs and cleaning brushes. They can also be more effective. Chemical exfoliants are acids derived from natural substances, such as fruit, trees and milk. They work to unstick the 'glue holding the dead skin cells together. They also help to increase cell regeneration to help your skin look radiant.

BHA's (Beta Hydroxy Acid)

BHA's have the smallest molecule size and are oil-soluble, this means they can penetrate deep into the pores and remove the dead skin cells and sebum that is clogging your pores. This is why BHA's are most commonly used to help prevent acne. However, because BHA's penetrate deeper than AHA's they are also more irritating and therefore not suitable for sensitive skin.

Salicylic Acid

best for: oily skin, acne-prone

Salicylic acid is probably the most well-known skincare acid, most widely used to help reduce acne and breakouts. Salicylic acid, which is derived from aspirin, is very effective at exfoliating the skin, unclogging pores, treating acne and acne scars, and helping with sun damage and age spots. Salicylic acid is widely used for acne as it has anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Salicylic acid can also be used to reduce sebum secretion (Sebum is the stuff that makes you skin oily and can clog pores, leading to spots.)

AHA's (Alpha-Hydroxy Acids)

AHA's are water-soluble, this means that they can not penetrate deep into pores, this makes them gentler than BHA's. AHA's are suitable for all skin types, even sensitive skin. AHA's remove the dead skin on the surface so that new skin can take its place. They can help with brightening and resurfacing the texture of your skin. AHA's are derived from apples, sugarcane, and other sugary fruits.

Glycolic Acid

Best for: anti-ageing, acne, dry skin

Glycolic acid is the most common AHA as it provides significant exfoliation, making it an all-round treatment for many skin concerns. Glycolic acid has a smaller molecule size so it can penetrate further than most AHA's but not as far a BHA's. Glycolic acid also has micro-bacterial properties, so it may help prevent acne. Glycolic acid, which is derived from sugarcane, is very effective at exfoliating skin, reducing fine lines, preventing acne, fading dark spots, increasing skin thickness, and evening out skin tone and texture.

Lactic Acid

Best for: dry skin, acne prone skin, oily skin

Lactic acid is found in milk. It is a better choice if you want something a bit gentler than glycolic acid as it has a larger molecule size and is quite moisturizing, therefore it is less likely to cause irritation. Lactic acid also has anti-ageing benefits. Lactic acid is a good choice if you are new to using exfoliating acids in your skincare routine.

Tartaric Acid

Best for: dry skin,

Tartaric acid is not widely used, it is good for alleviating to signs of sun damage and acne. Tartaric acid is derived from grapes

Citric Acid

Best for: normal skin,

As you probably know, citric acid is found in critic fruit such as oranges and lemons. Citric acid is used to even out the skin's PH and to even out rough patches of skin.

Malic Acid

best for: combination skin,

Malic acid is not as strong as most other AHA's and so is often used in combination with other acids to make them work better. Malic acid is mostly found in brightening products.

Mandelic Acid

Mandelic acid is derived from almonds and has a larger molecule size, making it more gentle. Mandelic acid has anti-bacterial properties and can help with brightening.

Tips for people who are new to exfoliating acids

• Chose leave-on products like serums, lotions, tonners, etc. The acids need time to work, so in wash-off products such as face washes, they are not very effective.

• Don't use them more often than instructed. Most acids tell you to use them 2-3 times a week, but depending on the concentration it may tell you to use it more or less frequently, so you should always read the instructions.

• Don't apply on broken skin or burns, this included spots that have been poped.

• wash your face if there is prolonged burning, while using most of the acid listed above you may experience a slight tingling but only for a very short period of time, if there is prolonged burning you should probably choose a gentler acid.

• Build it up slowly. Start with a low concentration once a week and build it up as your skin gets used to it.

• Be careful when using physical exfoliants (e.g. scrubs or face brushes) in combination with chemical exfoliants because you don't want to over-exfoliate.

• Always use sunscreen when using exfoliating acids. All of these acids make your skin more sensitive to the sun so you should always use sunscreen.